16 - Just In Tokyo
Tokyo often appears in the keen essays posted
by Scottish musician Momus on his web site:
www.demon.co.uk/momus
"If you're printing a flier in Tokyo, you put a
little map in one corner showing, not street
names or monuments recognisable citywide,
but the nearest subway exit and then the
positions, relative to your club, of local
branches of konbini chains like AM/PM, or
landmarks like McDonalds and Starbucks.
This is because most built structures in Tokyo
are impermanent, unremarkable, boxlike and
forgettable. What marks one from another is
its `electrographic architecture' -- the neon
and LED displays mounted on facades, the
graphic design of familiar logos draped, often
several stories deep, across their blank faces."
- from "I Lovehate LA"
Still each neighborhood has its
own speciality, flavor. As you
walk you'll come across wild
gems: an archery store in
Kanda, an underground jazz bar
in Yotsuya, a go (Japanese
strategy board game with black
and white pieces) boutique in
Ginza.
You'll find yourself wandering
through a small alley until it
narrows and you'll wonder if
human beings are supposed to
be able to pass through. Just
then a Japanese luxury car with
its rear view mirrors flattened against its sides will come up along-
side you, plowing ahead through the impossibly narrow gap at
frightening speed.
Walking Tours
Most of my long walks happen by accident. You could walk from
Shinjuku to Shibuya, through the young parts of town. Then take a
walk from Nippori to Kanda, the older part of town. Pick a place in
Tokyo and ask random people, for example, say: "Asakusa?" and
someone will likely say some things and finally point in one direction
or another. More on walking in the Neighborhoods section later.
Koban
Scattered throughout town are Police Boxes, called koban, where
police sit waiting to give people directions. They will be happy to
point you around. They have maps, patience, and occasionally
some basic directional English.
Rails
Japanese people ride more rails than any other people on the planet.
Accordingly, they have an addictively useful rail system. Tokyo is
crisscrossed by subway lines. It's not unusual to be walking in
Tokyo for twenty minutes and pass four different train stations on
In 1997 there were estimated to be around 710,000 robots
in the world; over 400,000 of those were living in Japan.