Just in Tokyo by Justin Hall
Page #16
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  • 16 - Just In Tokyo
    Tokyo often appears in the keen essays posted
    by Scottish musician Momus on his web site:
    www.demon.co.uk/momus
    "If you're printing a flier in Tokyo, you put a
    little map in one corner showing, not street
    names or monuments recognisable citywide,
    but the nearest subway exit and then the
    positions, relative to your club, of local
    branches of konbini chains like AM/PM, or
    landmarks like McDonalds and Starbucks.
    This is because most built structures in Tokyo
    are impermanent, unremarkable, boxlike and
    forgettable. What marks one from another is
    its `electrographic architecture' -- the neon
    and LED displays mounted on facades, the
    graphic design of familiar logos draped, often
    several stories deep, across their blank faces."
    - from "I Lovehate LA"
    Still each neighborhood has its
    own speciality, flavor. As you
    walk you'll come across wild
    gems: an archery store in
    Kanda, an underground jazz bar
    in Yotsuya, a go (Japanese
    strategy board game with black
    and white pieces) boutique in
    Ginza.
    You'll find yourself wandering
    through a small alley until it
    narrows and you'll wonder if
    human beings are supposed to
    be able to pass through. Just
    then a Japanese luxury car with
    its rear view mirrors flattened against its sides will come up along-
    side you, plowing ahead through the impossibly narrow gap at
    frightening speed.
    Walking Tours
    Most of my long walks happen by accident. You could walk from
    Shinjuku to Shibuya, through the young parts of town. Then take a
    walk from Nippori to Kanda, the older part of town. Pick a place in
    Tokyo and ask random people, for example, say: "Asakusa?" and
    someone will likely say some things and finally point in one direction
    or another. More on walking in the Neighborhoods section later.
    Koban
    Scattered throughout town are Police Boxes, called koban, where
    police sit waiting to give people directions. They will be happy to
    point you around. They have maps, patience, and occasionally
    some basic directional English.
    Rails
    Japanese people ride more rails than any other people on the planet.
    Accordingly, they have an addictively useful rail system. Tokyo is
    crisscrossed by subway lines. It's not unusual to be walking in
    Tokyo for twenty minutes and pass four different train stations on
    In 1997 there were estimated to be around 710,000 robots
    in the world; over 400,000 of those were living in Japan.