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museum and an awesome giant bronze
blue whale. The Tokyo National Museum is
a good traditional arts overview, a solid
Japanese craft and culture download
doable in an afternoon.
More small and more entertaining is the
Shitamachi museum, located near a large
marsh in Ueno Park. Downstairs you can
wander shoeless into recreations of cen-
tury-old tenement homes and crafts stu-
dios, upstairs you can get your hands on
some toys and games from the old days.
At the base of the Ueno Park steps, the
large Ueno Station. From here trains leave
for North Japan. After the Ueno Park steps,
a crowded intersection begins with street
vendors and even some foreigners distrib-
uting some occasionally illegal goods. Just
beyond this start markets that run along the
train tracks between Ueno and
Okachimachi. These dense corridors are packed with shops where
vocal hawkers push foodstuffs, discount luggage, shoes, lighters.
The shoulder to shoulder conditions, market smells and market
chants make this one of the most lively places to wander about in
Tokyo.
Akihabara - Electric Town
Wander far enough through the Ueno-Okachimachi market and you'll
end up in the crowded capital of consumer electronics. Akihabara is
new stuff located in an old section of town; imagine electronics
merchants wheeling piles of gleaming slim laptops in wooden carts
through narrow streets.
As unlikely as that may sound, the beating heart of Akihabara is the
small rabbit warren tunnels between and beneath buildings where
you can find security cameras, electric lights, walkie-talkies, minidisc
1945 Firebombing of Tokyo
In an effort to strike at Japan's
military production integrated
with homes and neighborhoods
in Tokyo, the United States
dropped incendiary bombs on
the city in the waning days of
World War II. Tokyo's density
and wooden buildings made it a
perfect target for a firestorm.
Well over 100,000 people are
estimated to have died as a result
of these attacks. The death and
devastation was more extensive
than the atomic bomb attacks.
Large sections of Tokyo were
flattened and charred bodies
filled the rivers. This event
resonates in the Tokyo psyche;
it was depicted in Isao
Takahata's animated film "Grave
of the Fireflies," the tear-jerking
story of two children orphaned
by these attacks.
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Neighborhoods -