48 - Just In Tokyo
like a donut. There's a docu-
mentary, hard to find but
rumoured to be excellent,
called The Colonel Comes to
Japan. By noted author and
Japan scholar John Nathan, the
movie uses KFC as a means
of studying Japan-US cultural
exchange in the context of
commerce.
Konbini
A range of weird goods in bite-
sized chunks, magazines and
stimulation appearing on nearly
every block. They sell meals,
like pasta with fish eggs or a
cheese omelette and they will
microwave it on the spot for
you. Be mindful where you
dine.
Rice balls
Small triangles and balls of rice
stuffed with fish and vegetables
and sour plum are a delicious
staple of the Japanese diet.
While traditionally this is the
sort of food that would be made
within the family or home, the
ubiquitous Japanese conve-
nience store offers a wide
range of unusual flavors that
will be largely unreadable to
you even after a few weeks.
You could end up with mayon-
naise and fish eggs, or tuna, or
salmon, or sour plum. It's all
filling, and some quite tasty.
Bring some back on the plane
for friends, the rice balls should
probably keep that long.
Izakaya
These Japanese pubs might
seem like the equivalent of
Denny's from their picture
menus and their broad, flat
sampling of Japanese cuisine.
But if you're hungry and con-
fused you can't do much better
than a picture menu, and often
Izakaya are all that's open late.
The tofu salads are usually
tasty and maybe try some
grilled fish (often sapa, mack-
erel). And always gyoza
(greasy, meaty potstickers),
maybe edamame (boiled
soybeans).
Drink
Sitting down to a Japanese
meal you are most often
greeted by a cup of warm tea.
Maybe cold tea. Water is
infrequently provided, and if you
request it (omizu), they're likely
to forget the first two times you
ask. As Mizuko Ito explained it
to me, the Japanese are raised
drinking tea. So water seems
kind of plain; maybe they feel
its kind of sad or boring to drink
something with no flavor.
These must be among the
most thoroughly caffeinated
people on the planet.