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nese culture. There are a wide variety of options, ranging from the
sleekly high-tech to the kitschy. If you're willing to live like a nomad,
moving around between nights, you can find some good cheap
adventure around bedtime.
futon on the floor, under padded blankets. The smell of straw mats
under stockinged feet. Rice paper screens. A large bathtub; please
don't empty the water (others might bathe after you - scrub up and
rinse down before you enter). Possibly a squat toilet. And food;
many ryokan offer traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast to their
guests; it may be included in your costs, or not. You may find your-
self sitting in a thin cotton robe, freshly bathed, working chopsticks
over slices of pickled vegetables, looking at a TV playing the evening
news next to a long black and white wall scroll, legs folded on a
cushion on a straw mat, and you might feel fantastic.
at Taito Ryokan puts you in the middle of old Tokyo, short walking
distance from town's big shrine with all the nearby old-fashioned
merchant madness. This ryokan is owned by a twenty-something
Kenichi, he likes having travelers around so he runs the place cheap
and welcoming: 3000 yen a night for a single room. You'll have to
share a shower and toilet with a dozen other wanderers, and the
facilities are not quite as starched neat and clean as elsewhere in
Tokyo. But for cheap, location, a bit of traditional flavor, and a very
helpful proprietor, it doesn't get much better than Taito Ryokan -
www.libertyhouse.gr.jp
Tokyo guidebooks and thick with Australians and Americans, you'll
find it a cheap, accommodating place to stay, sleeping with a bit of