Just in Tokyo by Justin Hall
Page #25
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  • 25
    Shinjuku
    The band X has a song where they refer to Los Angeles as the "City
    of Electric Light." They were talented, but they were wrong. Tokyo is
    the city of electric light. And Shinjuku is its brightest spot.
    Shinjuku at night is New Year's eve anywhere else, says Tokyoite
    Donald Richie. Shinjuku literally means "new inn," new in the 1600s
    or so. Shinjuku today is tall bright streets and alleys with tiny stalls
    and stores. This is the part of Tokyo that looks the most like Blade
    Runner
    . Electronics, books and sex are for sale here, like any other
    area, just in more dense profusion. Out the East gate from the giant
    Shinjuku station you'll find both large department stores and small
    massage parlors. Nearby Kabukicho is about as sleazy as modern
    Tokyo gets; a dense profusion of video booths, small sex clubs and
    love hotels. On the Yamanote Line, Shinjuku Station is the busiest
    train station in the world, where over 700,000 riders mingle daily.
    Harajuku
    Harajuku on Sunday afternoon is Halloween anywhere else. Kids
    dress up: Amish fetish, mutant tan and blonde girlstyle, fresh-from a
    car wreck makeup. There's a narrow street of shops, Takeshita-dori,
    where you can accessorize yourself completely for any fetish or
    flash-in-the-pan trend. It's some of the best people watching in the
    world. The nearby park is also nice walking on weekends, between
    the tough looking 50s Greasers. On the Yamanote Line; listen for
    the unique bittersweet Harajuku chime on the JR line subway plat-
    form.
    Shimo-Kitazawa
    In Shimo Kitazawa neon crowded teenage culture is compressed
    into narrow streets and low-rise buildings. Shimo is known as a
    theater and performing arts district, a relaxed and intimate locale
    with many small pleasant restaurants and shops. Take the train to
    Shibuya and head west four stops on the Inokashira line.
    Of the Japanese population of 127.1 million, over 17 percent
    are over 65 years old. The Japanese government forecasts that
    percentage could go as high as 28 percent by 2025. Add the
    lengthy Japanese lifespan, a low birthrate, an absolute aversion
    to immigration, and Japan may soon be a nation of old folks.
    Neighborhoods -