25
Shinjuku
The band X has a song where they refer to Los Angeles as the "City
of Electric Light." They were talented, but they were wrong. Tokyo is
the city of electric light. And Shinjuku is its brightest spot.
Shinjuku at night is New Year's eve anywhere else, says Tokyoite
Donald Richie. Shinjuku literally means "new inn," new in the 1600s
or so. Shinjuku today is tall bright streets and alleys with tiny stalls
and stores. This is the part of Tokyo that looks the most like Blade
Runner. Electronics, books and sex are for sale here, like any other
area, just in more dense profusion. Out the East gate from the giant
Shinjuku station you'll find both large department stores and small
massage parlors. Nearby Kabukicho is about as sleazy as modern
Tokyo gets; a dense profusion of video booths, small sex clubs and
love hotels. On the Yamanote Line, Shinjuku Station is the busiest
train station in the world, where over 700,000 riders mingle daily.
Harajuku
Harajuku on Sunday afternoon is Halloween anywhere else. Kids
dress up: Amish fetish, mutant tan and blonde girlstyle, fresh-from a
car wreck makeup. There's a narrow street of shops, Takeshita-dori,
where you can accessorize yourself completely for any fetish or
flash-in-the-pan trend. It's some of the best people watching in the
world. The nearby park is also nice walking on weekends, between
the tough looking 50s Greasers. On the Yamanote Line; listen for
the unique bittersweet Harajuku chime on the JR line subway plat-
form.
Shimo-Kitazawa
In Shimo Kitazawa neon crowded teenage culture is compressed
into narrow streets and low-rise buildings. Shimo is known as a
theater and performing arts district, a relaxed and intimate locale
with many small pleasant restaurants and shops. Take the train to
Shibuya and head west four stops on the Inokashira line.
Of the Japanese population of 127.1 million, over 17 percent
are over 65 years old. The Japanese government forecasts that
percentage could go as high as 28 percent by 2025. Add the
lengthy Japanese lifespan, a low birthrate, an absolute aversion
to immigration, and Japan may soon be a nation of old folks.
Neighborhoods -