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flesh and distribute the flavour. Note, an "ume sour" is a drink fla-
vored with a syrup, not the natural briny flavor of umeboshi - be sure
you are ordering all six syllables - oo-meh-boh-shi-sau-wah.
Marvellous tiles and mosaics, and invariably the insides packed with
Japanese and foreigners tilting back large mugs of Sapporo, as they
run it to promote their beer. Some German and Japanese food
available as well, and occasionally a beer-promotional floorshow.
a visiting foreigner involved with any sort of media. The Club was
started after World War II as a place for visiting journalists to find a
bed, a desk and a place to file stories. They've lost the beds, but
they serve food, drinks, broadband Internet connections, and often
fascinating speeches on Japanese culture, business and politics.
They have complementary guest memberships, which gives you
access to a giant English-language library about Japan, daily news-
papers and monthly magazines from around the world, and a great
place to check your email at your leisure. Guest membership should
not be hard to come by if you can represent yourself as somehow
being associated with the media or as a foreign businessperson
visiting Japan. They have a certain aging problem as well, so per-
manent membership is severely discounted for people under 35.
The bar here is a great place to get context for your time in Japan,
talking to journalists who report on health care, taxes, automobiles,
banking troubles, politicians. These people process Japan for the
outside world and they often like to share their observations. You
can't buy drinks here without being some form of a member.
station, there's a "Jazz Bar" advertised, "Since 1967." Down in the
basement, the music rules, conversation obliterated by giant speak-
ers placed at the end of the lovely Scandinavian wood-paneled room.
Order yourself a drink and sit there and listen to high fidelity recorded
jazz.