22 - Just In Tokyo
Neighborhoods
Following Nara, and then Kyoto, Tokyo is the latest in a series of
Japanese capital cities built around the Emperor. Many Tokyo
neighborhoods have character hundreds of years old; some have
evolved modern meaning from rubble following a disastrous earth-
quake in 1923 and the severe firebombing during World War II.
Tokyo has been built and rebuilt; there's a scattershot quality to it. A
modern mirrored office building rises up narrow between a squat
cinderblock laundromat, a leaning wooden house and a small shrine.
Shitamachi
Tokyo means "Eastern Capital." It was
referred to as "Edo" when woodblock prints
and kabuki were cutting-edge stuff. Mostly
when people talk about Edo now they refer
to a bygone era. Shitamachi is a broad part
of eastern Tokyo, the older side of town that
best preserves some of the flavors of Edo-
era Tokyo - wooden homes, loads of
shrines and temples, accessible people in
less constant cosmopolitan hurry.
Ueno
Ueno Park is a home to the homeless in
Tokyo. You'll see widespread encamp-
ments. Blue construction tarps have been
fashioned into tents and lean-tos. Get close
and you'll spy some industriousness -
clothes hangers with clean laundry, a golf
bag hung from a tree holding rakes and
brooms. It's rumoured people can receive
postal mail addressed to Ueno Park. Some
of these homeless folk speak English; don't
worry, they'll likely approach you.
Ueno Park also houses a zoo, a temple, a
shrine, the Tokyo National Museum, the
Natural Sciences museum, a Western art
Shitamachi means `towns below'
and refers to those areas
beneath the castle but still within
the city limits. Edward
Seidensticker has felicitously
translated the term as `Low City'
- the hills became the Yamanote,
the `High City'. He has also
estimated that the Low City,
which gave Edo so much of its
character, only occupied about
one-fifth of the city.
It now occupies even less, the
High City has grown so much.
Yet the traditional Low City
perseveres, even now remaining
different in feeling from the
Westernized Yamanote. Now
comprised (according to the
Shitamachi Museum) of Kanda,
Nihombashi, Kyobashi, Shitaya
(Ueno), Asakusa, Honjo and
Fukagawa, it still retains what
little is left of the feel of old Edo
- distinctly plebeian, also fun-
loving, less inhibited than those
remains of areas where the
military aristocracy, the
shogunate, observed its rules of
decorum.
- Donald Richie, Tokyo