Just in Tokyo by Justin Hall
Page #22
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  • 22 - Just In Tokyo
    Neighborhoods
    Following Nara, and then Kyoto, Tokyo is the latest in a series of
    Japanese capital cities built around the Emperor. Many Tokyo
    neighborhoods have character hundreds of years old; some have
    evolved modern meaning from rubble following a disastrous earth-
    quake in 1923 and the severe firebombing during World War II.
    Tokyo has been built and rebuilt; there's a scattershot quality to it. A
    modern mirrored office building rises up narrow between a squat
    cinderblock laundromat, a leaning wooden house and a small shrine.
    Shitamachi
    Tokyo means "Eastern Capital." It was
    referred to as "Edo" when woodblock prints
    and kabuki were cutting-edge stuff. Mostly
    when people talk about Edo now they refer
    to a bygone era. Shitamachi is a broad part
    of eastern Tokyo, the older side of town that
    best preserves some of the flavors of Edo-
    era Tokyo - wooden homes, loads of
    shrines and temples, accessible people in
    less constant cosmopolitan hurry.
    Ueno
    Ueno Park is a home to the homeless in
    Tokyo. You'll see widespread encamp-
    ments. Blue construction tarps have been
    fashioned into tents and lean-tos. Get close
    and you'll spy some industriousness -
    clothes hangers with clean laundry, a golf
    bag hung from a tree holding rakes and
    brooms. It's rumoured people can receive
    postal mail addressed to Ueno Park. Some
    of these homeless folk speak English; don't
    worry, they'll likely approach you.
    Ueno Park also houses a zoo, a temple, a
    shrine, the Tokyo National Museum, the
    Natural Sciences museum, a Western art
    Shitamachi means `towns below'
    and refers to those areas
    beneath the castle but still within
    the city limits. Edward
    Seidensticker has felicitously
    translated the term as `Low City'
    - the hills became the Yamanote,
    the `High City'. He has also
    estimated that the Low City,
    which gave Edo so much of its
    character, only occupied about
    one-fifth of the city.
    It now occupies even less, the
    High City has grown so much.
    Yet the traditional Low City
    perseveres, even now remaining
    different in feeling from the
    Westernized Yamanote. Now
    comprised (according to the
    Shitamachi Museum) of Kanda,
    Nihombashi, Kyobashi, Shitaya
    (Ueno), Asakusa, Honjo and
    Fukagawa, it still retains what
    little is left of the feel of old Edo
    - distinctly plebeian, also fun-
    loving, less inhibited than those
    remains of areas where the
    military aristocracy, the
    shogunate, observed its rules of
    decorum.
    - Donald Richie, Tokyo