38 - Just In Tokyo
add a cold water tub and a sauna. This can be a great way to
luxuriate and relax. Don't worry much about standing out, you
already do. There are signs up forbidding tattoos; probably a prohibi-
tion against the tattooed Japanese mafia, the Yakuza, but perhaps
they prohibit hip foreigners as well.
Large folks will likely be uncomfortable in capsules, as will folks who
tend to toss and turn, move around in their sleep. And light sleepers.
Bring ear plugs and they should tide you over. With earplugs, the
primary drawbacks are the poor air circulation (only slightly amelio-
rated by the sometimes functional in-capsule air conditioning), and
the lack of storage space. In the capsule itself, there is no room for
your luggage if you want to lay down properly. There are occasion-
ally lockers provided; often these are large enough only for a brief-
case, though some capsule hotels offer larger coin lockers. Cap-
sules generally fall in the 3000 to 5000 range per night ($23-$38).
Shibuya CapsuleLand
Near love hotel hill in Shibuya, this ten or so storey building offers
around 30 capsules per floor. Bathing facilities include showers, a
warm bath and a small dry sauna. The capsule TVs have one
channel of porn and seven other channels. Cheapy headphones are
provided. CapsuleLand offers standard single and double hotel
rooms as well. Rates around 3700 yen ($28), out by 10am. They'll
try to make you buy your room from a vending machine, but they will
take credit cards behind the counter as well.
Shinjuku Green Plaza
Beneath some marvellous baths covered in the Pleasure section,
the Green Plaza hosts a capsule colony - hundreds of nondescript
plastic coffins stuffed with businessmen staggering in from their bad
luck in the pleasure quarters. A short walk from Shinjuku Station,
through some of the lively sex-for-sale area Kabukicho. Accepts
credit cards.
Sauna and Capsule Mizuho - Omori
If you find yourself in Omori, near Shinagawa, inquire at the police
station for the two nearest capsule hotels, and go to the capsule
hotel second closest to the train station. The Mizuho is a modern
facility with beautiful new capsules, a restaurant serving dinner and