Just in Tokyo: Page 26

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26 - Just In Tokyo

Language

You enter a train station, clutching a map. Sweating from wandering
around Tokyo lost, nerves slightly frayed, you summon the courage
to approach a stranger to ask for help. You turn to a middle aged
man waiting for a ticket machine, "Do you understand English?" The
man waves his hand in front of his face, the Japanese gesture for
"no" as he backs away quickly, his bowed head displaying signs of
terror. You look around only to discover that everyone else nearby
has moved further away from you and those people you can see on
the periphery are moving rapidly in the other direction.

Do they speak English?

Japanese people learn some English in school. English reading and
writing are drilled into their heads. But the system hasn't done a
good job of encouraging them to chat in foreign languages. Com-
bine that with a cultural ethic emphasizing harmony (embarrassment
avoidance for themselves and others) and you have people who
occasionally react with terror when asked to use what they feel must
be poor English skills. This is not to give you the impression that all
Japanese people would react this way, but you will occasionally find
yourself isolated. Sometimes people will not want to communicate,
and your gentlest efforts to reach out will appear to threaten them.

You might find that some people who will be unable to communicate
with you verbally in your language can manage to write you a fine
coherent English language letter later.

The language presents significant barriers, especially to foreigners
visiting from Western countries. Japanese signs mostly have
symbols you cannot sound out. While many of the trains and res-
taurants and hotels have English-language signage, by and large you
will be illiterate in Japan.

Still most Japanese people, like people in the rest of the world, they
are curious about foreigners and excited to share their culture.
Some folks will offer to help you and practice English with you even
before you even look helpless. If you keep a smile on your face, and

In Tokyo, there are currently sixteen girls under the age
of 25 who have black hair. See if you can spot them all!