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prepared for the hotels and
restaurants around Tokyo.
stands where the freshest fish
you have ever eaten is being
sliced and served. If there's a
line out in front, it's probably
good. Across from a place that
sells rubber boots, there's a
tiny narrow sushi place; expect
to eat a great set menu course
for $30; beer and green tea
always go well with sushi,
surprisingly so before 9am.
eel, is a mainstay of many
delicious sushi meals, you will
find restaurants in Japan
serving large flat unagi steaks
on their own. Not to mention
the bitter hearts and tasty
deep-fried spines of these
beasts. Typically it's hearty,
heavy fare. Often these
restaurents have curly slightly
cartooned eel depicted outside.
misleadingly called tako in
Japanese. Most often you'll
see happy octopi on awning
advertising walk-up tako
stands, selling balls of octopus
and vegetables mixed with
eggy batter and fried, served in
brown sauce.
Portuguese travellers who
visited Japan in the 1500s,
batter-frying non-meat dishes
on Fridays when Catholics
couldn't eat meat. Tempura
today is vegetables, shrimp or
freshwater eel, dipped in a thin
batter with much egg, then
submerged briefly in hot oil
You'll see some restaurants
where they're serving what
looks like shiny red bits of fresh
tuna over rice in snotty white
mountain potato sauce with
flecks of dried seaweed. It can
be an unsettling mouthful.
with cabbage, seafood, meat,
eggs, noodles, whatever is
laying around. Be aware that if
you order okonomiyaki, you
might be expected to cook your
own, on a hot griddle at your
table. Still you should be able
to express enough
cluelessness that someone
nearby will help; either way it
ain't too tough. Be aware, it's
usually better to cook the