Just in Tokyo: Page 57

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tries. People blatantly stagger about, throwing up on subway plat-
forms, red in the face, acting happy. I say acting because perfor-
mance is a rich part of social drinking in Japan. The point is not only
to get thoroughly sauced, but to revel in it; act drunk, be drunk.

The Japanese drink an enormous amount of domestic beer. It can
be difficult to track down a dark, foreign or micro-brew. Iwate-ken to
the North has a local microbrew that appears elsewhere at times;
the logo is two reindeer butting heads or prowling about with a field of
stars overhead. The blue bottle or blue can is a delicious rich
flavour, nearly a Belgian taste.

Sake is served at most restaurants, sometimes in a small wooden
box. If it's cold, it's usually nicer sake. If it's served overflowing into
a small plate beneath the glass, it's a gesture of generosity and
you're welcome to sip the spilled remnants. Some sake is cloudy-
white, called "nigori" it is often sweet and only partially fermented.

Rice-based spirits, shochu, are clear with a nice citrusy bite. Popu-
lar in Korea as well; Japan has its own brands and varieties. Many
Japanese have an abiding fondness for whiskey, both foreign and
domestic labels.

If you go out for drinks in Japan, the beer and sake are typically
served in a large bottle with small glasses for everyone. Pour for
other folks and hope they pour for you. It's a nice way to encourage
social lubrication; once you return home and people are busy serving
themselves it might seem positively selfish.

If you wander around at night, you will notice small signs hanging off
the sides of buildings. Millions of them, each one representing a bar,
tiny dimly-lit watering holes. These are the places that Japanese
businessmen go to unwind, and places they entertain their friends.
It's possible that your unannounced appearance will not be well-
received by the intimates at any one particular establishment but if
you feel imbued with cash and charm, give it a whirl.

Umeboshi Sour

Umeboshi is the sour plum, a popular flavor in Japan. An Umeboshi
sour is one of these pink-purple plums in the bottom of your glass,
mingling with ice, club soda and shochu. You are encouraged to

Pleasure -